Face Masculinisation Tips and Tricks

This is the makeup I use to seem more masculine:

Skin care first (please see my skin care tutorial).

I line my eyebrows using an angled brush and the Romanced Eyeshadow Palette (w7) - using Romeo to draw a square around my inner eyebrow and lining the rest of the brow in Affair to produce a natural gradient and make the brows look less drawn on. I then top off Affair with the Brow Sculpt Kit (Body Shop), blending it into the centre to give a larger difference between the dark and the light and then top of with Affair again to help set the pencil. Press in the Technic Soft Focus Transparent Loose Powder (Technic) with a powder puff and sweep away any excess around the brow, leaving the brow looking white (this will set the brow and keep it on all day). 

Use the Romanced Eyeshadow Palette (w7) again and pick up Fairy Tale on a fluffy brush and press it into the crease of your eye - this will give a sunken in look to the eye, which is a typically more masculine look. Smoke out the excess around the lid to make it more natural. Add a light coat of Masterpiece Mascara (Maxx Factor) (just enough to darken the lashes) to the top lashes, do not touch the bottom ones as it will instantly feminise your face.

Define your cheekbones using the Revolution x Roxi Powder Highlight and Contour Palette Kit (Revolution or Superdrug). I suck my cheeks in and then draw a line where they dip in - these are your natural cheekbones and then your contour will move with you - but only contour halfway along the line and then smile and contour the line that forms from your jaw diagonally upwards and then buff out with a large fluffy brush. Contour your nose (take your nose contour fully out to make your nose seem as wide as possible) and temples. Define the jaw bone using contour and take it all the way back to your ear, then blend down the neck. Define an Adam's apple using circular contour motions and use Technic Soft Focus Transparent Loose Powder (Technic)  to produce a circle in the middle. Buff out. Using a beauty blender, swipe Technic Soft Focus Transparent Loose Powder (Technic) under the eyes and under the contour to form a white quarter that outlines the arch that you contoured on your cheeks and leave to bake for 2-3 minutes. Buff out. Add highlight on the brow bone and you cheek bones (very light coating so it's barely there) using your Revolution x Roxi Powder Highlight and Contour Palette Kit (Revolution or Superdrug) and then buff to ensure the highlight is blended into your contour. Swipe off the powder on your brows.

Set the entire face using Technic Soft Focus Transparent Loose Powder (Technic) and buff out. 

Add lip balm so your lips are moisturised but so much that they shine.

If you have peach fuzz, rub in Romeo or Fairy Tale (depending on how dark your hair is), coast in Technic Soft Focus Transparent Loose Powder (Technic) using a powder puff to get all day coverage, and swipe of any excess to produce 'stubble' or a 'five o'clock shadow'.

General Tips and Tricks

Avoid bright blushes, use a bronzer or an orange blush to make it discrete. 

Avoid pigmented, glittery highlights, use a dark brown highlight to give some shine but not too much. 

With the eyebrows, the thicker the better. Make the tips of the brow much darker than the middle to give the illusion of thickness.

Define under eye bags with Date Night from the Romanced Eyeshadow Palette (w7) to make the eyes seem more sunken in.

Chisel your jaw to give that masculine look. Go dark and heavy but make sure it's blended otherwise it can look like a tan line.

When contouring the nose, focus on the join between the bridge of the nose going into the eye sockets. Darken this to make the eyes more sunken in and this will make your nose seem almost oblong (so the nose looks more masculine).

Use a waterproof mascara as these are usually darker blacks and it will stay on for longer. 

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